I made this blanket for my Sunroom and never intended it to become a pattern but after sharing it on Instagram and facebook it became one of my most liked images at that time.
So many people then asked me if I was going to write out a pattern that I started to make another to check the pattern, yarn qty and take images and write it out.
However, for various reasons, the very lengthy process of making another blanket, taking images and writing the pattern had to be put on the back burner. Because it was such a big job I never seemed to have the free time to get back to it.
So, eventually, I decided not to make another large blanket to create the pattern for sale and instead share a version of it using guidelines to create a blanket.
Finally - after well over a year! I managed to get the basic stitch pattern written out. You can then adapt it to fit your project. I have tired to give as many details and tips as possible hence this word heavy blog post!
The inspiration for the colours I used came from soft furnishings in my Sunroom (the blanket is seen here on the arm of the sofa) but this can be adapted to suit any colour scheme.
The stitch used is the larksfoot stitch. I wanted a modern, clean and simple design and to allow for another row of the base shade to give more space between the colours I adapted things a bit.
It is a simple but effective design and it is a joy to make. This large throw is made using two strands of Double Knit yarn. I used Scheepjes Colour crafter and a 5.5mm hook. I used two strands of Colour crafter because of the fabulous softness, colour choice and the ability to find shades to fit my scheme. Once I had tested a swatch of it the plump softness was a winner! You could use any weight yarn but obviously the qty of yarn you would need would be different to those I mention here for this size blanket. If you would like to order the colour crafter from me and I don't have the shades in stock please do get in touch and I will order them for you.
Once you have the pattern memorised it has an easy and relaxing flow and it works up surprisingly quickly.
NOTES ON MY BLANKET:
NEW YARN PACK NOW AVAILABLE, if you would like to recreate this blanket.
These notes are as a guide only. As I mentioned previously I didn't start this project with a view to creating a pattern so I have no precise details about the length of the starting chain nor the exact amount of yarn I used. As I have not remade the blanket I am using an educated guess at quantities of yarn required.
The blanket I made in these images measures 41" x 64" and is a super snuggly sofa blanket.
If you wanted to make a blanket this size I can tell you that I started with 6 x 100gm balls of the base shade, Zandvoort and 2 x 100gm balls of each of the other five shades which were Pollare, Coevorden, Roermond, Burrum and Ameland.
Based on the measurements of my finished blanket and to allow for the border I would suggest a starting chain that measures approx 35" ensuring it is made up of multiples of 4 plus 2.
The border measures approx 3"
The blanket has 4 repeats of the colour sequence of five shades - Coevorden, Pollare, Burrum, Roermond and Ameland. I did try them in different combinations but this was the sequence that fitted best for me. I felt the blanket of this size needed a deep but simple border.
I did find some leftover yarn in my project bag which gives an idea of the amount I used. I weighed them and they were approx,
I didn't find any of the base shade Zandvoort left over - that doesn't mean there wasn't any as I did donate a large bag of yarn to a blanket making charity so it is possible it went there.
Coevorden 85gm (this was used in the border for round 1)
Pollare 45gms (this was used in the border for round 2, 7 and 8)
Burrum 85gm (This was used in the border for round 3)
Roermond 85gm (This was used in the border for round 4)
Ameland 85gm (This was used in the border for round 5 and 6)
Plenty leftover for another project. I thought of making a cushion cover with mine but obviously never got round to that!
To make a smaller blanket in the colour crafter (including the border) of approx 35" x 40" I would suggest a chain of 106 (multiple of 4 + 2 and using two strands) have 3 colour sequence repeats instead of 4. I would estimate that you would need 4 balls of the base shade and 1 ball of each of the 5 colours.
This stitch can be used for any weight yarn with the recommended hook size for that yarn and your yarn requirements would differ. Always ensure starting ch is multiples of 4 plus 2.
I used two 100 gm balls of each shade and worked from those but if you are only using 1 x 100gm ball of each colour you should split your 100gm balls into 2 x 50 gm
Yarn and hook used:
Two strands of Colour crafter held throughout using a 5.5mm hook.
Working with two strands is quite easy but to avoid any tangles I put the yarn balls I am working with in a large plastic bowl to keep control of them. It is an easy job to change them over when changing shades.
Multiples of 4 +2. (Start and finish in your base colour) I use stitch markers every 20 or 25 chains to keep count on the starting chain. Keep your tension loose to create the starting chain to prevent it becoming too tight.
If you are a tight crocheter to stop the first few rows being too tight and distorting the blanket you could use a slightly bigger hook (6mm or 6.5mm depending on your tension) for the starting chain and first dc row then change to the 5.5mm.
UK terms used:
ch = chain stitch, sl st = slip stitch, dc = double crochet, htr = half treble crochet, tr = treble crochet, ltr = long treble crochet
Long treble crochet: This is a treble crochet made into a gap two rows down. - Keep your tension loose and insert hook, pull through a long loop of yarn (3 loops on hook and keep your tension loose so you don’t distort the row) yarn over pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through last two loops.
Half treble Crochet: yarn over, insert hook through, yarn over and pull through – 3 loops on hook – pull through all three loops on hook.
Base shade to start and finish and between each colour.
1: Coeverdon 2: Pollare 3: Burrum 4: Roermond 5: Ameland.
This sequence is then repeated.
Holding two strands together of your base shade ch your desired amount (multiples of 4 plus 2)
Row 1: Dc in second stitch from the hook (shown in second image below) dc in each ch to the end. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first tr now and throughout) Tr in next three stitches (shown in the third image - you are working in to the stitch and not between the dc of previous round) ch1 miss a stitch then *3 tr in the next three stitches (shown below) ch 1 miss a stitch* repeat * to * until the end where you will have 4 stitches. Tr in each. Turn.
Row 3: ch 3, tr in the next 3 stitches ch 1 miss a stitch then *tr in next 3 stitches ch 1* repeat * to * until the end where you will have 4 stitches (as shown in the image below) tr in each. The last tr goes in the top ch of the starting ch 3 and you change colour here. You may have your own method for this. I leave the last two loops on the hook of the last stitch and then hook up the new shade and tie the ends before continuing. This completes 2 rows of tr in your base shade. Turn.
Row 4: ch 3, Tr in next stitch (don’t go into the stitch at the base of the ch 3) ch 1 miss a stitch, tr in next stitch, long tr in the next stitch (Image shows where to place your hook to create a long tr) Tr in the next stitch. TIP: There are 3 stitches before the next gap and it can be easy to miss the first which can often be hidden behind the long tr you have just made.
ch 1 miss a stitch *tr in next stitch, a long tr into the space two rows below, tr in next stitch ch 1 miss a stitch * Repeat * to * and tr in the last two stitches to finish the row. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 3, tr in next stitch ch 1 miss a stitch *tr in the next 3 stitches ch 1 miss a stitch* continue * to * to the end tr in last 2 stitches to finish the second row of that colour. Change to base colour. Turn.
Row 6: Ch 3, tr in next stitch, long tr into the row below, tr in next stitch, *ch 1 miss a stitch, tr in the next stitch, long tr in the row below, tr crochet* repeat * to * until you reach the end with one stitch left and finish with a tr into the top of the turning ch. Turn.
Row 7: Ch 3 tr in the next three stitches ch 1 miss a stitch *3 tr in next 3 stitches, ch 1 miss a stitch* repeat * to * at the end row tr into the 4 stitches that are left as in the 2nd image below, Turn
Row 8: ch 3 and repeat row 7 for the next row, change colour at the end of this row. You will have 3 rows of the base colour.
Repeat from row 4 to row 8 changing colours after each 3 rows of base colour.
Whatever you have decided for the length of the blanket the last colour change you do should be followed by two rows of the base shade rather than 3.
Do not fasten off.
Ch 2 and turn the corner putting a dc in the space shown in the image. This is the space between the last 2 tr stitches you made. Continue along the long side as shown in the second image. At the other end of the long edge ch 2 and dc in each stitch as shown in the 3rd image below. Work across putting a dc in each stitch as shown in the fourth image.
Work down the next long side Ch 2 turn and dc into the same stitch as seen in the first image below before working along. Once you reach the end you will ch 2 turn and as shown in the second image below dc into the same space, then dc in each stitch along the last edge which is that last row you made on the blanket. At the end ss into the ch 2 you started the round with.
Colour sequence: 1 Coevorden, 2 Pollare, 3 Burrum, 4 Roermond, 5 Ameland, Ameland, 7 Pollare, 8 Pollare,
Round 1: starts in a ch 2 corner space. Ch 5 (counts as first tr and ch 2) 2 tr in same space, tr in each stitch, 2tr 2ch tr in the corners. At the end of the round join with ss in the 3rd stitch of the starting ch 5. Ensure you work into the stitch directly after the corner (as shown in the first image below) as this can sometimes be hidden behind the tr you have just made
Round 2 Join the new colour in a ch 2 corner. I always start in different corners. This round is the same as round 1
Round 3: Join in a corner 2 ch space ch 4 (counts as first htr and ch 2) 2htr in same space then 1 htr in each stitch. 2 htr 2 ch 2 htr in each corner. At the end of the round join with ss in the 2nd stitch of the starting chain 4 to complete the corner.
Round 4: Repeat round 3
Round 5: Attach new colour in a corner 2ch space. Ch 4 (first htr and ch2) then 2 htr, ch1 miss a stitch, htr in between next 2 stitches (not the top of the stitch) ch 1 miss a stitch and continue round. Finish round with a htc in the corner and join with ss in the 2nd ch of starting ch 4 don’t tie off.
Round 6: Ss into a ch 2 space. Ch 4 (first htr and ch 2) 2 htr in same corner space, ch 1 and htr in next ch 1 space. Repeat around. End with htr in corner and join with ss in 2nd ch of starting ch 4.
Round 7 and 8: Change colour and join in a corner ch 2 space. These rounds are a repeat of rounds 5 and 6. I used the darkest shade in my palette as I felt it framed the blanket nicely.
And there it is, finally :) my Oh what a lark blanket guide. I found the time to make sense of my notes to write it and to edit the images when I was forced to spend a few days in bed with a virus. In between naps I enjoyed getting this written and am looking forward to finally ticking this off the to do list :) I hope it all makes sense and that you enjoy the pattern and if you do make a blanket or a project using it I would love to see it. If you are on instagram please tag me or use #ohwhatalark and I can find it :)
Thank you for all your love for this project on Insta and fb and your patience waiting for it!
Love Lynn xx